I have been silent for a long time, for reasons of professional ethics and freedom of action. Now I break my silence, as my sense of responsibility is superior to the laity and the need for protection.
Since the end of 2014, Germany has experienced a regular boom in pigmentation of eyebrows. It is advertised with a “highly natural, modern, innovative” technique : MICROBLADING. This is a new method, which guarantees a beautiful result with very thin, naturally running hairs. One can scarcely distinguish between the hairs that are drawn from their own eyebrows’ hair. The procedure is painless and not traumatic; So MICROBLADING is something completely different and much more natural than the original permanent makeup, which is lowered by the advocates of the innovative method of barbarian technology. Only with MICROBLADING you can achieve ideal results and get the perfect eyebrows par excellence. The resulting natural eyebrows would fade within 8-12 months and leave no residue.
MICROBLADING also has other names: 3D eyebrows and recently also 6D eyebrows .
So the marketing. And now to the facts:
The new, modern method is nothing more than ancient Chinese techniques for tattooing eyebrows. This has always been used mainly in poorer quarters of China, since the materials are very cheap. In this way, poorer population layers can also benefit from eyebrow pigmentation. So much too “innovative”.
Above all, one must not forget that the skin of Asian women drastically differs from European skin. Asians have yellowish-shimmering, tight, and vascular-poor skin, whereas the skin here is rather loosely and vascularly, often the connective tissue is weak to very weak. For this reason, the skin of European women heals completely differently and reacts differently to the introduction of pigments.
2. WHAT IS “MICROBLADING”?
What does the word “microblading” mean? Correct, translated from English, this is nothing more than “mini-cuts”. And yes, that is exactly what happens in treatment. A special blade attached to the rod is immersed in the pigment and this device is used to cut the skin. The pigment is then applied to the injured surface and inserted (called “masks” by the practitioners). This approach is presented as not traumatic and painless. And here the facts:
In permanent make-up (and micro-blading is nothing else than permanent makeup, ie semi permanent introduction of the pigments into the skin), pigments are implanted in the derma layer of the skin. This is the middle layer between the epidermis and the subdermal layer. To get there, you have to overcome the epidermis. When we work with a pigmentation device, the following happens: The needle penetrates the skin several thousand times per minute, it always goes in and out, so it produces a lot of punctures in the Derma and releases pigments with every incision. The skin is, so to speak, perforated several times.
What happens when microblading? The skin is cut into the Derma, as with a scalpel. Pigments are introduced into this section. What is a cut? This is an injury to the upper coat of skin, followed by blood leakage and scarring. If a surgeon does not sew the skin after surgery, the wound heals under scarring, because connective tissue is formed at this point (rescue kitt, so to speak). Now that we are dealing with MICROblading, we get MICROnarbs …
Among other things, the treatment is painless and does not bleed. That’s not true! It is painful (the skin is cut, try to cut the skin with a blade, how can it be pain-free?) And it bleeds naturally, because there are capillary in the Derma layer. If this treatment does NOT bleed, it can only mean one thing: it is worked to the surface, and the pigments thus introduced enter the epidermis only. This coat of skin is, however, renewed every 28 days, and this would be the highest lifetime of the pigmentation, since the pigments would dissolve together with the dead skin cells.
Of course I tried the microblading. To my friends and relatives, who have entrusted me with their skin, so that I could have a picture of the treatment and its consequences. (Do not worry, it’s all good, I have not experimented on the face, but on the upper arms and thighs, where the skin is very similar to the eyebrow skin, and of course I removed the treated surfaces again with laser).
3. “VERY NATURAL”?
Ultimately, of course, the result should be. This is the strongest argument in the advertising of microblading. The hairs would be drawn very fine, according to the direction of growth of their own hair, and would not differ from their own hair.
The work is done with freshly made work (taken directly after the treatment). I have to confess that these are really very nice and natural, and here is also the HOOK. Because: first the healed result (3-4 weeks after the treatment) says something about the result. Immediately after the treatment, the injured skin immediately contracts (natural reaction of the body) and the lines drawn look very thin and beautiful. In the subsequent healing phase, however, the following occurs:
The cuts heal. Micro-colors (visible with the magnifying glass and in good light) are produced. The introduced pigments migrate in the dermoid layer. This makes the drawn lines thicker, blurring partially. Since it bleeds during the treatment, the pigments are partly mixed with the hemoglobin (iron-containing dye of the red blood corpuscles) and are permanently encapsulated in the derma. This is the reason for the bluish-gray color of the hairs, which I often see after the microblading treatments.
In order to draw uniform, beautiful lines in the same skin depth, the hand must be very calm and practiced. This is extremely rarely the case (reasons I will describe below). As a result, after the healing process, irregular, broken puncturing lines are formed, since the pigments partly land in the derma (often, unfortunately, still deeper) partly in the epidermis. In these cases, the practitioners offer an after-treatment in which the lines are traced. Unfortunately, such aftertreatments usually aggravate the situation because it is extremely difficult to hit the existing line with the blade. This often results in new parallel lines of the same quality.
4. “FULLY COMPLETED”?
Permanent make-up is a semi-permanent introduction of the pigments into the derma layer of the skin. It does not matter with what methods this happens, whether with a device or with a blade bar. As soon as the pigments land in the Derma, they remain there for a certain time.
The fading of the pigments is very individual and depends on several factors. Metabolism, sun exposure, peels, diet, smoking, hormones, drugs …. Everything plays a role. On average, the pigments can be used for 1-5 years in the skin.
If the pigments are too superficial, they fade within a month as the epidermis layer is constantly renewed. If they are too deep, they can remain permanently in the skin. That’s it.
5. “PERFECT FORM”?
For most microblading treatments the eyebrows are measured and drawn with a special circle according to the “golden cut”. This is the ideal form of perfect eyebrows.
Beautiful words, bad consequences … For: you can not just go and draw the eyebrows according to certain rules! Each face is unique and requires individual treatment. As a professional you have to look at every customer in its entirety. Everything plays a role: the style, the size, the facial expressions, make-up habits, etc. As an instructor and trainer I repeat again and again: one should only sketch in freehand with pigmentation and do not use measuring instruments and stencils. Only in a single case do I advise to measure: if one is unsure whether the eyebrows are really the same length. The rest should only be done by hand.
Microblading is on everyone’s lips. Who does not “bladet” now is out and outdated. It “bladen” all who have taken up the trend. How does that happen? Very easily:
An educated, professional training to become a permanent make-up stylist takes a long time, costs a lot of money and is associated with high investments.
An “apprenticeship” to the microblading “professional” takes two days, costs between 1,000 and 1,500 Euros and requires very little investment (the Starterkit can be bought already for 300 to 400 euros).
Honestly: what can you learn in a group seminar in two days? Yesterday still one has his rolls with foot care and varnishing of nails deserved, then two days seminar and already one cuts with blades in the face rum …
Only for comparison: In order to make vitamins, for example, one needs at least a completed naturopath training (2-3 years plus passed examination before the health authority). Two private seminar days are enough to get an eyebrow.
Irresponsible and incomprehensible …
I have observed this development in Germany for 1.5 years. In the whole time I have NOT seen a single BEAUTIFUL CLEARED RESULT. No naturalness, no perfection, no thin lines. At most 1-2 months after the treatment, some half-acceptable results were presented, which however, in the following months, blurred to undefined spots.
Almost every day, microblading “victims” come to us to remove the terrible results. Desperate, crying women, who have come upon beautiful shots of the freshly made works and are now walking around with disfigured eyebrows. We remove these results all the time. This is painful, costs money, time and nerves. These customers pay first for the microblading, then for the removal and then for the correction treatments (if they trust again at all, to make themselves again).
I am often accused of not being objective. There would be enough bad work done with a device. Yes, that is true, we remove abundant blemishes, which have arisen through treatments with devices. BUT, this does not justify any further disfigurement on faces, whether with device, blade or other methods!
Do not be dazzled by beautiful pictures. Think carefully whether you are really willing to get rid of three-digit sums of money, hours of time, and a bunch of nerve cells to get this experiment going on.
Let yourself be treated exclusively by experienced professionals and PLEASE! You should always show HIDED results / reference work. It is important to ask for the results, which differ dramatically from fresh work. With about 1,000 permanent make-up treatments every year, I know very well what I’m talking about here.
There are really good permanent make-up specialists in Germany. Experienced, serious colleagues, who love their work and passionate. As a rule, these colleagues do not engage in aggressive advertising, always show ready-made, healed results and tell you openly and honestly about possible side effects. You should go into such hands, only such specialists should you trust your face.
In this sense, I wish you beauty, a happy smile and caution against ill-considered decisions.
Maria Prieb , trainer and expert for Permanent Make Up and its removal